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Construction excavator and backhoe pins are regularly in the dirt with no harm. These pictures and measurements will also come in handy if you need to repair anything in the future.Īs far as the bucket pins being in the dirt, keep them well greased. Pictures of the trenches and pipes with fixed reference points helps also.
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You will need to take measurements to the ends of the pipes you leave in the ground so you can find them in the future. Another important factor to consider is the teeth on the bucket. But, keep in mind that a wider bucket also means more weight, which can impact your excavator’s performance. The wider the bucket, the more material it can scoop up in one pass. This method may use a little more pipe, but will reduce the number of trenches, re-grading, re-seeding, etc. Mini excavators typically come with either a 12-inch or 18-inch bucket. A double layer of duct tape on the end of the pipe will keep dirt out for years. Trenches can be branched off a main run later as well. Plumbing pipes and electrical conduits can be dead ended in the ground to be continued on later. Run all the pipes going in each direction at one time. Plan out what you need to run underground in each direction you have to dig. If you need to work in a trench that deep to connect or repair pipe, whether plumbing or electric, you will want a wider trench. We produce excavator bucket and excavator attachments for all diggers and backhoes, from 0.5 ton micro diggers to the largest full-size excavator.Bottom wear. They have superior strength, durability and reliability to provide the performance you expect. If I didn't have the trenching bucket I probably would not buy one, but I could get away with a trencher.ġ2" is narrow to work in if you are 2.5' down. Galen mini excavator bucket and attachments are specially designed to work with your machine. Is it worth it to buy a new bucket for one project? My backhoe came with the 9" bucket and I purchased a wider one. If it is too sandy to sides can collapse, and given the depth of your trench that could be more trouble than its worth. I have used trenchers in sandy soil in the past with mixed results. I spend more time trying to locate the damn things and repairing them then I do on the trenching, but I digress. One other problem, I have already chopped through 2 sprinkler lines with the backhoe. The clay makes for nice clean trench walls but it is troublesome. I can have problems with my 18" bucket as well. It sticks to the sides, the teeth, its just a pain.
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I have very heavy soil so the clay often sticks to the bucket. I put my 9" trenching bucket on which works great with the one notable problem. I need to dig a trench from the back of my house to a gazebo under construction to bring power and internet to the new building. Re applying the sod is dealers choice but atleast it’s not all mixed in with the fill creating weak spots to settle out later. Once all the spoils are swiped in, wheel roll it a couple times and then place the sod back on after a little rake work. Once you got a good 12” in the tench you can then bucket pack the dirt in lifts (layers) since it fits in the same trench it dug. Get the hang of it and you can get pretty good at not disturbing the sod under the pile. Once done with conduit install, instead of hammering it with the loader bucket, stay straddled on the trench after digging it and side swipe the dirt back in with the backhoe bucket a flat angle with the ground. Then pile your spoils on the other side a couple feet away from the trench in a wind row.
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One way to not have a huge mess is to first strip all the sod and put it on one side. One fault the narrow buckets have is limited work space in the ditch so if you wanna deep ditch wider is better but a conduit at 3’ or less that’s fine. Would give the bottom of the bucket more rigidity thats for sure.If it’s just one 2” conduit than 12” or less I expect. I really don't know what the difference in performance would be, since I'm not really a digging man.īut I've seen buckets done both ways, and this time I'll go laterally as per your suggestion. And my last bucket on my little backhoe was the same. The original wear strips on the bottom went longtitudinally. I used Can Am for a couple years, but couldn't find a good supply, so now using Eagle Alloys 606, a lot cheaper, and rods are all position and easy to light compared to Stoody. I guess I was a little cheap on the Stoody, that stuff is pricey. Ya, Torker, I ran Stoody on the cutting edge and up the ends, but your idea of cross hatch on the corners is good, I've seen that on bulldozer blades. And thanks to members in this forum who steered me to AR plate. The old blade was worn right down into the frog so lucky I was able to repair so easily.